(This is dedicated to the people of Nice and those who were in this radiant and splendid city on the 14th of July 2016)
We lived in Nice (the capital of the French Riviera with about 344,000 inhabitants) for over one year and have unforgettable moments there, including visits of our Australian nephew and friends who jogged at the Promenade des Anglais (7-kilometre walkway along the sea) in shorts and sleeveless t-shirts in winter. They were amazed by the very narrow streets of Vieux Nice (Old Town of Nice) aligned with colourful (mainly yellow-brown) houses that have laundry hanging from the windows and specialty shops, such as the butcher that sells alive-looking pheasants (with heads and feathers, of course).
According to literature, Nice was founded by the Greeks, and during the 19th-century it was a famous destination for Europe’s elite. Today, it attracts travellers and artists from all over the world due to its sunny weather and liberal atmosphere, splashy markets, alluring restaurants and proximity to other well-known places (such as Cannes, Monaco and Saint Paul de Vence).
Its library, the Bibliothèque Louis Nucéra, was our second home. Almost every day, I found myself relaxing on its colourful small chairs between bookshelves and audio-visual stands. We made the most of the free artistic workshops and film showings on Wednesdays and Saturdays. I often mingled with retirees wanting to learn or improve their computer skills. Once I had to help a well-groomed woman in her mid/late 60s who was struggling to upload information on pages of an introduction website.
My then 5-year-old son and I had fun in the premier voyage of the city’s 8.7-kilometre, single-line tramway on November 24, 2007. Actually, Nice had a tram (but horse-drawn) in 1879 which was electrified in 1910. In the 1920s, the tram network had 11 lines, but was replaced by buses on some lines in 1927; and on 10 January 1953, the last tramway stopped running.
During school holidays and on weekends, after some hours at the library, we went for a stroll at the Promenade des Anglais then relaxed at the nearby beach. Very wealthy Englishmen, who spent winter in Nice, were the origin of this Promenade or La Prom. It was first called by the locals (Niçois) Camin dei Anglès (the English Way). In 1860, when Nice became part of France, it was renamed La Promenade des Anglais. It has since been a remarkably pleasant and friendly place full of walkers, bicyclists, baby strollers, in-line skaters and skateboarders.
Nice is not only beautiful but convenient too. Once before dawn, I had to rush to a chemist at Place Masséna because my son had a stomach ache. Place Masséna is the main city square bordered by red ochre buildings of Italian architecture that reminded me of my trips to provincial Mediterranean places. Though the surrounding shops and boutiques were not opened yet, there were already fascinating sounds and smells due to either the remnant of last night’s party or early creativity and activity.
Next time I’ll visit Nice, I’m certain to find it still a lovely city I’ve always known; but such a trip will likely to trigger a different souvenir.
“Darkness cannot drive out darkness: only light can do that. Hate cannot drive out hate: only love can do that.” ― Martin Luther King Jr., A Testament of Hope: The Essential Writings and Speeches.